News Flash: Just because cotton is natural doesn’t mean it’s good for the planet.

One of the most chemical-intensive fibers used in clothing, cotton is hardly harmless. Seven of 15 pesticides used to grow cotton are known or potential human carcinogens, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

These hazardous chemicals are allowed in conventional cotton because the crop is often grown in countries where fewer regulations exist. For example, growers in India and China still use DDT, an endocrine disruptor banned in the U.S.

Ever wonder how cotton gets that soft feel?  It comes from processing it with toxic chemicals like urea-formaldehyde––a combination of urea and formaldehyde. Urea is in urine. Enough said. Formaldehyde can cause eye, nose and throat irritation, can cause cancer in animals and may cause cancer in humans, according to the EPA.

The environmental effects of growing conventional cotton are just as dismal. “The plants absorb some of the pesticides, but a lot of it is going to get dispersed through the air and land on other plants, ”said Kim Hiller Connell, a Ph.D. student in environmental science at Michigan State University. “Or it’s going to go into the soil and trickle down into the ground water.”

Another Way
Organic cotton is an option for those who like the fiber but don’t like the environmental costs associated with it. Like foods, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (USDA) regulates organic fiber harvesting. These regulations prohibit the use of most pesticides and genetic engineering. USDA agents must certify imported organic cotton. “Plants must meet the same national program standards used for foods,” said Lori Wyman, an administrator for the Organic Trade Association, which encourages global sustainability by promoting diverse organic trade.

However, government regulations for processing cotton after it leaves the field do not exist. To ensure that organic cotton is processed correctly, the Organic Trade Association recently collaborated with three other organizations to develop the Global Organic Textile Standard. This standard covers the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibers. Certified companies can display the global standard label on their products.

Wyman says there are already companies certified with the global standard, such as Greensource, a supplier of organic cotton. A comprehensive list of certified companies is on the Organic Trade Association Web site at ota.com.

Consumers can also look for the American Organic Fiber Processing Standards label, which was developed by the Organic Trade Association prior to the formation of the global standard. Online stores such as Maggie’s Organics, Live Life Organics and Anvil Organic are all certified by the Organic Trade Association. A complete list is at theorganicspages.com.

And if you want even more options for organic cotton products, check out the sidebar.

Organic Options
Finding environmentally and socially responsible cotton is easy. You just have to know where to look.

• Wal-mart. The big-box chain now carries brands that make organic shirts, such as Hanes and Faded Glory. (walmart.com and hanes.com) 
• Patagonia and Edun. These online stores carry organic cotton lines. Not all products at Patagonia are made of organic cotton, but those that aren’t are made of recycled fibers. (www.patagonia.com and www.edunonline.com)
• NatureWear Organics. This online store sells fashionable organic shirts, intimates, pants, coats and socks. Buy at naturewearorganics.com. Also check out totallyorganic.us for clothing made from Greensource, AnvilOrganics (anvilknitwear.com) and Live Life Organics (livelifeorganics.com), which are all certified organic companies.
• American Apparel. This clothing retail store known for its straightforward colors and designs offers the Sustainable Edition clothing line that features products made of organically grown cotton. The shirts cost around $15. They also can be purchased online at americanapparelstore.com
• Levi. Levi’s new Eco Jeans are made from organic cotton. These jeans can be purchased online or in-store and are in a variety of styles. They cost from $68 to $245. The jeans are 100 percent or 98 percent organic and can be purchased at levisstore.com 

Elisabeth Pernicone is a sophomore majoring in journalism at MSU. This is her first appearance in EJ Magazine Online. Contact her at pernico1@msu.edu.